London Fashion Week Spring 2010 – Mary Katrantzou

Last year I wrote a post about the talented jewellery/fashion designer, Mary Katrantzou, when she show-cased her amazing jewellery-inspired digitally-printed shift dresses to the rest of the world after finishing her MA at Central St Martins. Since then, she has shown twice in London Fashion Weeks, with her Fall 2009 collection drawing inspiration from perfume bottles (and where she also broadened her range of silhouettes and raised her talents in her jewellery-making), and now in her newest collection for spring 2010, it is the “spiraling, fluid forms of the artisanal blown glass“ that has fuelled her creativity.

As you can see, Katrantzou keeps getting better and better each season and continues to push the boundaries of digital print. Owning a dress of hers would be like owning a piece of art! Looking forward to what she comes up with next season…

Alexander Wang S2010

Hope you’re all ready for a photo-fest, because I’m about to rave on about one of the best Spring collections I’ve seen yet – by Alexander Wang. Like many other designers who are sporting the ‘sporty-look’ next spring, he has taken his inspiration for his new collection straight out of the football locker room and onto the runway. Since his collaboration with The Gap earlier this year, his colour palette and fabric choice has broadened away from his signature look of black-leather-and-studs, and towards the red-white-khaki-and-grey of American sportswear.

Not to say there was no leather or black involved – it just wouldn’t be Alexander Wang without those key elements. But this time he has incorporated them into his own interpretation of sportswear with examples such as the amazing cropped leather jacket show below on the left (my favourite piece in his collection), and the matching leather baseball/aviator-style cap on the right. I’m lovin’ the cropped stripey knit top too, and can think of several outfits I would happily wear this layering piece with – all non-midriff exposing tho…with..err..the state of my midriff!

I also found this great photo from Style Bubble of Wang’s grey balloon-sleeved sweatshirt fused with a corset and leather lace-ups…

(Style Bubble)

And here are some yummy pieces that will fulfil the appetites of loyal Wang-lovers who need their dose of his dark-side. I find his choice of using soft, fluffy, sparkly fabric to make his strong football-shoulder pieces (below left) very clever indeed, and I think his sheer-shoulder tunic/top/dress (whatever it is) in the end pic (below) is puff-perfect.

But what really impresses me about Alexander Wang, is his attention to detail. Every strap, panel, lace-up, stitch, zip, dome, button, seam etc are carefully thought out and placed in exactly the right places to make each garment so desirable. Look at the detailing on the sheer/leather vest below…I love how the back looks just as hot as it looks on the front. I want this!!

I also really love his version of the high school varsity jacket – double-breasted AND zipped. And the sports bras are perfect for wearing under anything that will show off your back.

According to an interview with Alexander Wang he used Australian Wool for lining in some of his pieces (nice one!), and is expanding his T line to include a line for women too. Basic T’s and dresses never looked so good!

Thakoon – Spring 2010

Did anyone watch R.J Cutler’s documentary, The September Issue, and thought Thakoon Panichgul was the cutest, sweetest thang? Not surprisingly, his cameo appearance in the movie has given him a huge boost in exposure to his already rapidly increasing popularity (fans include the likes of Michelle Obama), therefore creating quite the pressure on Panichgul to impress at New York Fashion Week.

Thakoon Panichgul, born in Thailand, raised in Ohama, and now based in New York, is renown for his “feminine designs which are as romantic and sensual as they are modern and innovative”, often reflecting various distinctively different influences due to his diverse background. This year, he has decided to add a touch of sporty-flair to his collection, with his scuba-inspired body-conscious dresses, and some interesting silhouettes where he tried to incorporate both tight and loose characteristics. There are also hints of Japonism with the kimono-cuts, the draped ‘ninja pants’, and also the stiff armour/warrior-like panelling featured on some of his dresses.

There is definitely quite a mix in his Spring 2010 collection, however I couldn’t help but feel that it seemed all a bit disjointed. But there are some great pieces, with my favourites featured in the second photo in the nude and black range.

Chronicles of Never – S/S 09/10

(The Normalist Vintage Boot)

(The 1914-1918 Black Boot)

While shoe-shopping for my bf recently, we came across these amazing shoes by Sydney-based label: Chronicles of Never. As you can see from the photos, the style is suppose to look post-war and slightly worn and distressed, and the leather is incredibly soft. We both loved the shoes so much my bf ended up buying two pairs in two slightly different styles and in two different colours – always a good habit when you find something you really like.

(CON’s Spring 2009 Shoe Collection)

Chronicles of Never was started up by Gareth Moody, one of the founders of hot Australian denim label Ksubi (previously known asTsubi). The label is reknown for its androgenity, and its dark and broody nature, which extends throughout his entire range including shoes, clothing, jewellery, and accessories.

Below are wee snippets of his Spring/Summer 2010 collection titled: Blind Silence Audible Vision. Combined with the bleak and rocky backdrop, the new collection brings together ethereal and nomadic influences. To get a better feel for the label and read what makes Moody tick, I highly recommend that you check out their very cool (and a rather creepy) website…the soundtrack actually gives me the shivers (yes, I am a wuss).

(photo source)

David Elman Does It Again

As I have discussed in my one of my earlier posts regarding my current obsession with the wedge boot, I have been hunting high and low for the perfect pair. Whilst I have become rather attached to these amazing Alain Quilici Faceted Wedge boots (love the futuristically-sculpted hidden wedge heel combined with short pointed toe)…there was no way I was able to spend the €455 (which equates to about a kazillion AUD) to attain them. *sigh*

(Alain Quilici Faceted Wedge boots)

Then all of a sudden the clouds parted, and the sun came out shining as bright as I have ever seen it shine before. And what did I see appearing before me in a TradeMe auction… but the most wonderful pair of black suede ankle wedge boots by David Elman.

Although I have seen David Elmans’ shoes around from as far back as I can remember, there isn’t very much information about him available. I do know that he is a talented shoe designer from NZ, and it is clear from the craftmenship that Elman’s shoes are carefully handmade and are of high quality. Considering the height of the heel (approx 9cm) and the rather thin leather sole, I can also vouch for the fact that his shoes are very comfortable to wear as well!

The last time Elman bought happiness to my feet was a while ago when I found a pair of his beige and ivory brogues at my favourite vintage store in Wellington – Ziggurat. You can see me wearing these here, or view them in their glory below:

Nature’s Skeletons

Do you have a favourite season? If you had a choice, would you choose to live in your favourite season all year round – or would you prefer the variety of 4 seasons? Coming from someone who loves fashion (and shopping!), I live for my Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter wardrobes. Every 6 months or so, I pull out my suitcase full of clothes/accessories etc that I’ve packed away 6 months before and refresh my closet for the new season. Sometimes it’s like Christmas all over again, picking up pieces of clothing I have forgotten about over the months…”oh that’s right, the cute little lace tee I bought last summer!” Or, “yay I get to wear my favourite snuggly angora wool hat again!” Not only that, each season bring me the joys of seeing new designer collections down the runways along with the excitement and anticipation of the continuous flow of fashion weeks. And of course, there is the shopping!

But if I was to pick a favourite season, hmmmm…it would probably have to be autumn. There is something about autumn that gives me the warm and fuzzy feeling. Colours are different, the smell in the air is different, even people are different. It is a season of transformation, and while I am normally someone who gets a little iffy with too much ‘change’ – who doesn’t admire the beauty of nature during autumn (and love kicking about in the piles of fallen leaves!?).

Jewellery maker, Laura Su, also sees the beauty in nature’s transformations. She has developed a beautiful collection for her jewellery label, PrismeraDesign, entitled: Cast Collection, based on the various stages of decay of the dead and weathered leaf. While her source of inspiration may sound a little sad and morbid, her philosophy behind the collection brings us a better understanding of where she is coming from:

“..I see them [leaves] as reminders of what must be cast off in order to face the future. Every year, as trees shed their leaves in preparation of a new beginning, I am filled with a poignant mixture of regret, nostalgia, and most importantly, hope.” – Laura Su.

Not only is her collection absolutely amazing and truly captures the essence of autumn and nature combined, Laura Su is giving away a free 14k gold fill necklace with a black, faceted gemstone drop with every order until the end of September 2009. Most of the pieces are also available in either bronze, silver or 14k gold upon request. The two pieces of jewellery above (left to right: ‘Ash Leaf Ring’ and ‘Falling Leaf Necklace’) are my favourites, and while I may not prefer to live in my favourite season all year round – I’ll happily wear it instead! ;o)

"eat me I’m organic"

Bought two great little items during my shop yesterday. Now that we’ve entered into the first month of spring, and the insanely hot Aussie summer is just round the corner…I thought I’d better invest in the essential wide-brimmed floppy hat (on the cheap from Studio Claude D’Alban Paris). I was tossing between getting the beige or the black, and ended up getting the black as it went with my black hair better and would go with a couple of my potential race-day dresses for Melbourne Cup and Darby Day – oooh can’t wait! All I would need to do is add a few flowers and ribbons here, or some lace and long black feathers there…and I’m done!

Also popped into the Gorman Outlet store and found the cutest tee from their Organics Range – I love the cheeky “eat me I’m organic” slogan!

I’ve also seen their new Summer collection titled: African Violet instore. It’s all about vibrant ethic colours and tribal patterns, always with the feminine Gorman touch. I’m also loving their new shoe range! Well worth checking out.

Coco Avant Chanel

Watching the trailer for the movie: Coco Avant Chanel, I was instantly drawn by the beauty and elegance of Audrey Tautou (as Coco Chanel), and was captivated by the quick glimpses of Chanel’s life and fashion style before she became the Fashion Icon of today.

(Audrey Tautou in Coco Avant Chanel)

Having watched the movie, I came to realise that what I had envisioned her life to be in her earlier days were indeed very different to what I had learned. Orphaned as a young child and taken in by nuns who taught her how to sew, and choosing to be a self-kept mistress to a rich playboy, were not how many would have imagined the beautiful and successful Chanel to have lived. It was also interesting for me to learn that Chanel was never really that passionate about becoming a fashion designer in the first place, and almost had to be convinced to follow that path in order to make a living.

Whatever the case, Chanel did indeed lead a facinating life and whilst some aspects were quite sad and heart-breaking – one cannot help but respect her sense of survival and appreciate what she has achieved in her career. Her revolutionary “less is more” approach to fashion lead to creations that were sleek, simple and comfortable to wear. In the 1920’s she was producing ‘twin-sets’ which later became known as the Chanel suit, and is reknown for her iconic blue and white-striped fishermen tops. She was also one of the first designers to launch her own perfume i.e. Chanel No. 5, which continues to be one of the world’s top selling fragrances.

(All movie photos from source)

This is a beautiful and moving story about the early life of Chanel, however if you are hoping to see an indepth view of her life as the glamorous and successful Parisienne couturiere – you may be disappointed. Only in the last few moments of the film do you get to watch Chanel in her element as a fashion designer and see her parade her work down a flight of stairs at a fashion show – hence reflects the title Coco Avant Chanel (‘avant’ translates to ‘before’ in English).

(Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel)

The Blak Zip Dress

Since my first encounter with the wonders of Pixie Market last year while I was in NYC, I have become quite a fan of their online store. The store is a haven of emerging international designers and some truly inspirational pieces, and although I haven’t bought anything from them since that cute lime-green tunic, I have been very very tempted…

…like this rather fantastic little Blak dress by Blak Basics.

(Black Zip Batwing Dress by Blak Basics)

I love the shoulders and sleeves on the dress, and the simple zip detailing. I would team this dress with white stockings…or with pink tights and white ankle boots (sigh…I have the perfect pair sitting in my closet at home in NZ as we speak).

Funnily enough, the dress ‘SOLD OUT’ as soon as I clicked on the item, but I’ve managed to hunt the dress down through Blak’s actual website (which happens to be a New Zealand label!), and have found an online store which stocks their label: Me-tail Therapy. Unfortunately they only stock the grey version of the dress…

(Blak Basics dress)

Doesn’t have quite the same impact as the black huh? Looks like I’m gonna have to sit on this one for a bit I think…

Mary Katrantzou – Jewellery-Inspired

On the topic of statement jewellery, let me introduce to you – recent Central Saint Martin graduate, Mary Katrantzou. Her dresses feature Russian Constructivist-meets-Art Deco trompe l’oeil prints that create the illusion of wearing giant necklaces without actually having to put one on! Her AW08 collection also featured jewelley pieces made out of wood and metal, designed as exact replicas of her prints. If you look very closely at the photos below you should be able to pick out which dresses have jewellery pieces attached to them – she’s really blurring the line between real and printed jewellery!

(Mary Katrantzou A/W 08)

With a concentration on textile design she has developed another series of mind blowing dresses paried with fantastic pieces of jewelry for her SS09 Collection. In her new collection, hypper-real imagery is further explored combining jewellery and pop-inspired colours. The colors are bright, the graphics are mesmerizing, but because the dresses themselves are simple in shape, nothing goes overboard.

(Mary Katrantzou SS09 – dress and jewellery range)